When we went to Ireland, we stayed at the Holycross Cottages in Holycross, County Tipperary (yes, it is a long way...). Definitely off the beaten path. A cosy two bedroom cottage in a town with all the modern amenities: a general store, a pub and a church. The former being attached to the latter and very full after midnight mass on Christmas Eve. Thurles is nearby, a larger town with a beautiful town square and a legendary hurling pitch. That's like rugby and field hocky put together or something, we missed a big match by one day (for the real dirt on hurling go here). Our cottage was centered on a huge fireplace (very old school Irish style) and my father loved stoking the peat-brick fire every night. The lady at Croke's (the general store) laughed as we came back day after day for more peat, apparently the Irish don't burn much peat anymore, she thought we were quaint.
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